Kirkwood History – The Opening of the Kit Carson Pass (Part 2)
© 2004 by Anthony M. Belli

Historians today still debate the reason for Fremont’s mid-winter crossing of the unchartered Sierra’s in 1844 while California is under the flag of Mexico. Did Fremont drive his expedition into this snowbound wilderness to reach Sutter’s Fort as a matter of survival as he claimed, or was he on a mission of military intelligence? Either way, Fremont’s second expedition near starved, out of provisions and against all odds marched into this icy frontier, at times crawling on hands and knees as they cut a trail towards the summit. They would eat dog, horse and mule just to survive, but Fremont did get his men through. Establishing the Kit Carson Pass became significant to California’s early development under U.S. authority (1847 - ) by becoming the major route used by overland 49ers to the northern mines during the California Gold Rush.

February 10, 1844 – Long Camp, Elevation- 8,000 feet

This is Fremont’s advance camp. The expedition is now stretched out along the eastern face of the snowbound Sierra’s for more then 20 miles with a difference in elevation of nearly 3,000’. An icy trail cut from hand extends from the lowest camp at present day Markleeville to the camp at Grover’s, to the next camp at Charity Valley, ascending to the camp at Faith Valley and finally to Long Camp within view of the summit.

On this day Fremont enters into his journal… “We are now 1,000 feet above the level of the South Pass in the Rocky Mountains, and we are not done ascending. The glare of snow, combined with fatigue, has rendered many of the people nearly blind; but we were fortunate in having some black silk handkerchiefs, which, worn as veils, very much relieved the eye…”

Word reached Fremont on the 11th of an accident near the camp at Grover’s. Renowned mountain man Thomas “Broken Hand” Fitzpatrick was in command at Grover’s. In an effort to clear the road of fresh snow Fitzpatrick’s party attempts to ascend a canyon wall just west of Grover’s Hot Springs cutting their path as they went. Fitzpatrick watches in dread as the animals sink into deep entrapping snow, some clear up to their ears.

The day of the 12th was spent reinforcing the road in high winds and snow conditions as Fremont and a rescue party descends the mountain to Grover’s. Mauls were made by hand which were used to beat down and compact the deep snow. Pine boughs are placed on the path to increase traction.

Fremont orders several men to Grover’s camp to slaughter some horses and pack the meat into the other snowbound camps along the mountain. The remaining horses not involved with the accident or the evening meal are sent back to the camp at Markleeville where they are to remain until the road has been reinforced.

On February 13th as Fremont supervises his eastbound rescue party he spots Fitzpatrick ascending the mountain towards them. That afternoon Fitzpatrick sends forth a scout who reports to Fremont that the two parties will soon meet up and all is going well on Fitzpatrick’s end. Fremont briefly talks with two snow clad Washoe Indians heading west with fishing gear. It is confirmed that the party is on the Indian path spoken of by Melo earlier and the salmon were coming up stream, which news brought renewed vigor to the men.

On this day Fremont wrote… “The meat train did not arrive this evening, and I gave Godey leave to kill our little dog, which he prepared in Indian fashion; scorching off the hair, and washing the skin with soap and snow, and then cutting it up into pieces, which were laid on the snow. Shortly afterwards, the sleigh arrived with a supply of horse meat, and we had to-night an extraordinary dinner---pea soup, mule and dog.”

February 14th- Fremont and his cartographer, Charles Preuss climb to the summit of the highest peak near camp to get their bearings. Today that peak is known as Red Lake Peak, 10,063. From here the men became the first whites to gaze upon the splendor of today’s Lake Tahoe. “With Mr. Preuss, I ascended the highest peak to the right; from which we had a beautiful view of a mountain lake at out feet, about fifteen miles in length, and so entirely surrounded by mountains that we could not discover an outlet,” wrote Fremont.

Fremont and Jacob Dodson leave Long Camp on the 16th as an advance scouting party to determine their route over the pass then along the descent of the western slope. On the night of the 17th the two men return to Long Camp and are quite surprised to be greeted by Fitzpatrick and his party from Grover’s. Fremont noted… “Here we had the pleasure to find all the remaining animals, 57 in number, safely arrived at the grassy hill near the camp.” Two days later the entire second expedition had reached Long Camp.

On February 21st the expedition passed over the summit of today’s Carson Pass at a location just south of present day highway 88. They began their descent and two days later Fremont wrote from their camp at present day Strawberry… “Here among the pines, the hill side produces but little grass---barley sufficient to keep life in the animals. We had the pleasure to be rained upon this afternoon; and grass was now are greatest solicitude. Many of the men looked badly, and some this evening were giving out.” Although they still had some distance to cover the descent was much easier, the worst was behind them. On March 6, 1844 they reached Sutter’s Fort without loosing a single man.

Kirkwood History Stories

Kirkwood History – The Opening of the Kit Carson Pass (Part 1)

Kirkwood History – The Opening of the Kit Carson Pass (Part 2)

Pioneer Zack Kirkwood Was First To Tame This Frontier Mountain Wilderness

Kirkwood’s Historic Mountain Resort – One Of The Oldest In The Lake Tahoe Region